MioMi Slouch Beret-Free Crochet Pattern

Extra wide buttoned ribbing. Mittens and Scarf will also be available.

Available as a PDF Download:   download now

Skill Level: Intermediate

Supplies: Size F, G, H and J Crochet Hooks, 6.75 ounces Herschners Whisper Soft Yarn (Dk Beige #0025), yarn Needle, 2-1” Buttons.

Stitches Used: ch (chain), sl st (slip stitch), sc (single crochet), hdc (half double crochet), dc (double crochet), dec dc (decrease double crochet). Note: beginning or turning ch 3 counts as first dc.

Gauge: with J hook, 2 pattern groups = 2″, 4 pattern rows = 3″  Pattern = 2 dc, loosely hdc in skipped dc, skip next dc.



Rnd. 1: with F hook, leaving 12″ tail, ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn.       15 sc

Rnd. 2: working in back loops, sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn.     15 sc

Rnd. 3-71: repeat rnd. 2.      15 sc

Rnd. 72: with G hook, working in front loops, sl st in each sc across, ch 1, turn.     15 sl st

Rnd. 73: sl st in each sl st across, ch 1, turn.       15 sl st

Rnd. 74: repeat rnd. 73.

Rnd. 75:  sl st in first 3 sl st, ch 3, skip next 3 sl st, sl st in next 3 sl st, ch 3, skip next 3 sl st, sl st in last 3 sl st ch 1, turn.    (2-button holes)

Rnd. 76: sl st in each sl st and in each ch across, ch 1, turn.         15 sl st

Rnds. 77-80: repeat rnd. 73, fasten off at end of rnd. 80.       15 sl st

Using tail, whip stitch side seam at back loop of rnd. 72 and at beginning ch.

Fold flap over seam, sew buttons opposite of button holes as shown.  Weave in ends.


Rnd. 1: with J hook, attach yarn in end of any row on back of hat, ch 1, sc in same st, evenly work 71 more sc around top of hat, working through both thickness on hat and flap, join to beginning sc, ch 3, do not turn.        72 sc

Rnd. 2: dc in same st, loosely hdc in last sc on rnd. 1, skip next sc, *2 dc in next sc, loosely hdc in skipped sc, skip next sc*, repeat from * 34 times, join to beginning dc, ch 3, turn.

Rnd. 3: dc in next dc, loosely hdc in 2nd dc on rnd. 2, skip next st, *dc in next 2 st, loosely hdc in skipped st, skip next st*, repeat from * 34 times, join to beginning dc, ch 3, turn.

Rnds. 4-14: repeat rnd. 3.

Rnd. 15: with H hook, repeat rnd. 3, ch 2, turn.

Rnd. 16: holding last loop back on hook, dc in next 2 dc, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook, *work 1 dec dc over next 3 dc*, repeat from * 34 times, join to beginning dc, fasten off.

Working on wrong side, using yarn needle and yarn, weave yarn through all dc’s on top of hat, pull tightly and securely tie in place.  Weave in ends.

Tie pom-pom to top of hat.


Wrap yarn 50 times around 2″ cardboad square, slide off cardboard, tie in center, cut ends.


49 Comments on “MioMi Slouch Beret-Free Crochet Pattern”

  1. Rnd. 75 contains a mistake:
    There are only 15 stitches to crochet in. You say slip stitch in first 3 slip stitch (12 stitches left). *chain 3 and skip next 3 slip stitch (9 stitches left), slip stitch in next 3 stitches (6 stitches left), slip stitch in next 3 sl stitches (3 stitches left).
    Then you say repeat from *
    This is not possible, because this requires 6 stitches, and there are only 3 stitches left.

  2. Thank you so much for the “heads up”! You are correct….it should read:
    Rnd. 75: sl st in first 3 sl st, ch 3, skip next 3 sl st, sl st in next 3 sl st, ch 3, skip next 3 sl st, sl st in last 3 sl st ch 1, turn. (2-button holes)

  3. You’re welcome 🙂
    I am very pleased with this pattern, not finished with it though.. I ran out of yarn.. The stitches with the loose hdc in the previous ch is marvelous! Gives the hat a nice touch.

  4. Thank you so much!

  5. It’s finished . I am happy with this hat!!!

  6. That’s fantastic! Thanks so much for letting me know about the final results!

  7. Renee Says:

    what is the difference in the two MioMi Beret Patterns? I printed both.

  8. No difference……I just cut and paste one on the site for those who cannot download PDF files.

  9. Jennifer Says:

    I’m sure I’m using a “smaller” yarn, but I also have a big head. I need to increase the size of the fibbing and hat. Do you have any suggestions on the best way to do this, other than playing around with it? (Any help would be appreciated!)

  10. Sure! Thank you so much for your interest in this pattern. Work your increases in increments of 3 rnds……the ribbing should be about 24-25″ (or size needed to fit) which includes the overlap, work your ribbing to that size.
    When you work across the top of ribbing…..you will need to make sure the number of stitches can be divided 3. That will give you the correct count for the pattern on the hat.
    Hope this helps.

  11. Sharon Says:

    Hello, I’m interested in doing this pattern, but I don’t particularly like the wide ribbing (or would like to see if a more narrow ribbing would be more to my taste), but I am concerned it would affect the pattern badly.
    Have you tried this pattern with a narrow ribbing? Do you think the pattern would still work if I altered it?
    I am only considering taking about 2/3 off the width.

    Thanks!!! ^_^

  12. Thank you for your interest….no reason you couldn’t alter the pattern……You can narrow it and if want a button…..you could work it down to 7 stitches and it would still accommodate a button…….if you don’t want a button, you could go any width, you would need 72 ribs and then just sew the ribbing closed, then complete the hat as written…….

  13. Laura Says:

    Hi there! My daughter really loves this hat and I am trying to make it for her birthday. I am really confused on Rnds 4-14 (really even rnd 3 too). It says to dc in next dc..which is really 2 sts away from chain since the first stitch is a hdc from previous round. Then it says to loosely hdc in 2nd dc from rnd 2..which would be several stitches away since in the previous round it starts with one dc, then a hdc, then you skip a stitch and FINALLY you come to the 2nd dc from that row, in which I am told to hdc (seems like at least 5 stitches away from the first dc I make.) Is that right? Am I missing something? I have ripped this thing out at least 5 times trying to get it right. 🙂 The connecting seam always looks funky to the rest of the hat. Thanks for any direction.

  14. Hope this helps……

    Rnd. 1: with J hook, attach yarn in end of any row on back of hat, ch 1, sc in same st, evenly work 71 more sc around top of hat, working through both thickness on hat and flap, join to beginning sc, ch 3 (this count as the first dc in next rnd.), do not turn. 72 sc

    Rnd. 2: dc in same st, loosely hdc in last sc on rnd. 1, skip next sc, *2 dc in next sc, loosely hdc in skipped sc, skip next sc*, repeat from * 34 times, join to beginning dc, ch 3, turn.
    In this row……the ch 3 counts as your first dc, then you want to dc in the same st……then hdc in the last sc that you made on rnd. 1………this creates a cross stitch……… skip the next sc following the 2 dc………work 2 dc in the next sc, then you want to work the hdc in the sc that you just skipped

    Rnd. 3: dc in next st, loosely hdc in the last st that was worked on rnd. 2, skip next st, *dc in next 2 st, loosely hdc in turn.
    This is almost the same as rnd. 2……………….dc in the next dc…..then work your hdc in the last st on rnd. 2………skip the next st
    You should end up with 2 dc then an hdc that crosses over the 2 hdc and is worked in the skipped st.

    Rnds. 4-14: repeat rnd. 3. Rnd 4 repeats the same process as in rnd. 3

  15. Laura Says:

    Thanks that makes much more sense that you actually hdc in the hdc from the previous round..not the 2nd dc from previous row as I was understanding the pattern to read. I am excited to see her reaction when she sees I made it for her. 🙂

  16. Gail Says:

    This pattern looks so awesome and I’m working on the ribbing. I don’t understand rounds 72-76. I can’t get the hook through the slip stitches. I thought slip stitches were not meant to be “worked” in. Will it work if I just continue with sc?

  17. When working a slst in a slst…..just push your hook thru the top loop…….this will create a knit look. You could also use the sc….continue with the ribbing (working the sc in back loops…..work enough rows to just overlap each other for the button…….then when you sew the button on, go thru both thicknesses….Hope this helps, just give me a shout if you have any questions.

  18. Josie Crenshaw Says:

    What weight is the yarn you used? We don’t have that brand of yarn here and I don’t want to order it online since I have a timeline when I need to finish this 🙂 what is a similar yarn you would suggest?

  19. Thank you so much for your interest. Any #4 worsted wt (or aran wt) yarn will work.

  20. Sammieantha Says:

    I believe I am almost to round 73 (I lost count, per usual). I am concerned that the length is too long? When I wrap it around my head, it overlaps about 2 inches. I just wanted to make sure that I am on the right track before I advance any further!!

  21. It sounds like you are on the right track, it is designed to overlap to create the buttons and buttonholes. You will need to do the overlap before you start the main part of the hat.

  22. Sammieantha Says:

    Hey, I really appreciate your quick response and I think you’re amazing for being so helpful!! You rock! 🙂

  23. It’s always my pleasure! Feel free to contact me anytime.

  24. Heather Says:

    I don’t understand rnd 16. Like.. At all.

  25. On this rnd……it’s all decreasses…….dc 3 stitches togehter…….instead of working the usual dcdec……the decrease is worked over 3 stitches.

  26. Heather Says:

    Ohh Okay. Thanks!

  27. perla Says:

    tendra el patron en español? muchas gracias

  28. Thank you for your interest, I’m sorry to say it’s not available in Spanish.

  29. Pauline Reiber Says:

    Is there a scarf and hat pattern available for this also.

  30. Brenda Says:

    What is the circumfrence of the band? I could use a smaller hook to scale down the size, correct? Or what would you suggest for making it smaller?

  31. It’s about 21″ around……there are a couple ways to scale down……you could go with a lighter weight yarn, perhaps a light worsted weight yarn like Caron Simply soft or a Sports Weight yarn. It would be a little difficult to go with a smaller hook using the worsted weight yarn. You could also reduce the number of rows worked…..the main part of the band has 72 rows, so instead of working 72 rows……perhaps 66 or 60 rows (the pattern is worked in multiples of 3)…..

  32. Debie Stark Says:

    Hi, I just finished sewing the band together, but am confused with the part that says to fold the button flap over seam as shown. There is nothing showing me what to do. Do I fold it over the seam and sew it down???

  33. The ribbing is not sewn end to end as usual…….overlap the buttonhole part about 2 inches over the button side of the band, sew in place on the wrong side…..this createes the buttonhole flap……..then turn to right side, fold the flap over to position the buttons opposite the buttonholes and sew the buttons in place.

  34. Lindsay Says:

    Hi, I have just finished rows 72-80 (using a G hook), and it is actually narrower than the band rather than being slightly wider as it looks in the picture. What can I do to fix this??

  35. Those rows are worked in slip stitches and will be slightly smaller, but it should not be enough to make a difference once it’s finished with the buttons. If you have a large difference in the width, the stitches may be too tight, to correct that, you may want to move up to an H hook.

  36. Lindsay Says:

    Wow, quick response! Thanks! It looks pretty awkward the way it is so I’ll try the bigger hook. 🙂

  37. my pleasure……also…..you can stay with sc for those rows……it doesn’t have to be done with slsts………

  38. Donna Boath Says:

    love it .. 🙂 thank you for sharing x

  39. My pleasure! Thank you so much.

  40. Laura keegan Says:

    Love the patterns. Thanks for sharing.

  41. Thank you so much….always, my pleasure!

  42. Lindsay Says:

    Okay, so I wasn’t very happy with my first attempt. It was too “heavy”, and I used a multi colored yarn that I didn’t much prefer (probably why you don’t let a 4 year old choose the yarn! Lol). But I LOVE the second one! I used a sock yarn instead. At first I thought it was just going to look like a doily, but it looks awesome!! I will definitely make this again. :D. I just wish I could post a picture…

  43. Oh ……I wish you could post it! I’d love to see it…….I’m partial to the lighter weight (sock or lace weight) yarns but it seems worsted is the the popular. I’m so glad it worked out for you.

  44. Theresa Boles Says:

    Thank you so much for sharing this pattern I just love it, I just finished two and my cousin saw it and she wants two. The first one I made for a friend now wants one for her 10year old daughter. I was reading the comments from the others and saw were you don’t recommend going with smaller hooks but with a lighter yarn, do you think that would make it small enough for a little girl?
    Thank you for your time.

  45. Thank you so much for your very kind words. The hat size for a ten year old would be about 19/20″ in circumference and the height of the ribbing should be an inch or so shorter, so I would probably go with a sports weight yarn #3 or a light weight #4. This way, it won’t look so bulky on her…..Instead of using a J hook for the body of the hat, I would probably go with an I hook. The pattern may work out fine for that size, but you may also need to reduce the # of ribs. You would probably need to measure as you go. There should be an even # of stitches going across the top of the ribbing.

  46. Yvonne Says:

    Is this pattern on you tube to watch. I have it and had it for years just trying to make it

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